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by Alexia Amvrazzi |
![]() Objectively speaking, Ikaria is not the most outstanding of islands, in fact it’s quite rugged and wild, lacking in what most tourists to Greece yearn for – a broad variety of sparkling beaches (in fact I could name only two remarkable ones, Nas and Seychelles), a lively and modern nightlife and gourmet food. Ikaria is somewhat lackluster in its architectural design, at least in the conventional sense, and unsophisticated in its cultural scene – there are very few museums or galleries, and no international festivals drawing music lovers and filmmakers. So why is it so popular, so trendy, so beloved worldwide? |
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![]() In a country where most youths flee their villages and the tough chores required of them there, for a more modern life in the city, it’s impressive to see most adolescents and youngsters on Ikaria willingly learning how to care for their family’s land and animals from an early age. Indeed, the demanding work that Ikarian people engage in daily, working outdoors in clean, oxygenated air and bold sunshine is actually one of the very factors that their longevity is attributed to. |
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![]() Their individualistic philosophy was clearly exhibited when Ikaria existed as an independent state for around seven months in 1912. When the island broke free of Ottoman rule it was not immediately reabsorbed into Greece because the latter was deeply embroiled in the Balkan Wars. The treaty that the island signed when it rejoined the rest of Greece expired in 2012, and at the time many locals old and young campaigned for the opportunity to regain their independence. One Facebook group of almost 900 people for that cause, wrote: “Lets make another Ikarian Revolution! Let’s get free from Greece! We want freedom!!!”. |
Lord of the Dance
Ikaria is named after Ikarus, who according to Greek mythology was the son of master craftsman Deadalus, and who was escaping imprisonment from King Minos in Crete by flying with wings his father had made. But ignoring sage advice, the youth flew too close to the sun and landed to his death on the island. There is something about this myth that provided me with a strange sense of understanding of the spirit of the people and of the dramatic, lush and vibrant landscape. Ikarus was flying with man-made wings to escape imprisonment by a tyrannical but powerful and civilized king, a life of captivity, and he died by landing on this very island; so for some reason, the island has become infused by his spirit of escape to freedom and the unstoppable drive to take flight. |
When in Ikaria… |
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Beach it
Nas, a nudist, somewhat hippie beach, (about 5km from Armenistis, also a popular surfing beach and one of the busiest areas for accommodations with a few lovely, sea-facing hotels), is well known for the remains of the Sanctuary of Artemis, that sit on its sands, and an emerald river surrounded by beautiful greenery that leads toward the sea. Above the beach are several tavernas offering delicious food and lovely sea and sunset views. Stop at either Anna’s taverna or Thea’s taverna to try mouthwatering homemade style dishes made using organic produce from their own vegetable gardens, free range goat meat and fresh fish. Go to Artemis Studios for a fresh fruit juice cocktail or a beer. Seychelles (photo), around 25km southwest of Agios Kirikos, is an idyllic white sand/white pebble cove with crystal azure waters, with dramatic limestone cliffs on either side. You’ll need to walk around 15 minutes from the road where you park your car to get there, and bring water and snacks with you. Avoid it in August as it gets very busy. If you want wilderness, beauty and privacy, head to Prioni beach near Aghios Kyrikos, a small pebble cove surrounded by high cliffs, with clean, cobalt blue waters. Getting here also requires a hearty walk, taking a path that’s on the road from Aghios Kyrikos to Therma, after the Analipsis church. Messakti is another good choice, easier to reach but more crowded in July and August. With two rivers intersecting it, there are cool, freshwater currents flowing into the sea. There are several cafes and tavernas nearby as well as a beach bar and sun loungers for rent. On the eastern end of the island is Faros, which has drawn quite a few foreign residents over the years and has some great fish tavernas along its wide, long stretch of coast. Go for a walk… “The Round of Rahes On Foot”, an eco-tourist project supported by the Rahes Municipality, has created a fantastic and detailed “Guide Map”, of the major, well-signposted hiking routes on the island, taking you past and through rivers, gorges and other stunning scenery. You can find the map for sale throughout Ikaria (around 3 euro). Newly created Discover Ikaria also organize excellent walks, hikes, climbing, biking and other adventurous excursions around the island, including nature walks focused on herbs or plants, mushroom gathering (followed by cooking and eating your finds), historical and other themes. |
Eat out – Top 3
Cousina: Two first cousins, both chefs trained in France and Italy, brought a gourmet touch to their home village of Rahes, using local organic ingredients and creatively playing with traditional concepts. The result is delicious, fun and well worth returning until you’ve tried everything on the menu. Try the caprese salad made with their uncle Antonis’ local kathoura cheese. Stou Paschalia: A large old house with a wacky, anarchic interior that serves only organic produce sourced from Paschalia’s farm and cooked up fresh. Simple, yet flavorsome traditional dishes and friendly service. Try the free range souvlaki fired up on the open grill. Sto Kampi: One of Ikaria’s ‘new wave’ restaurants, blending local cuisine with tastes from around the world. Serving burgers and salads to pasta dishes and meze, the place is lively, entertaining and busy, sometimes with live music gigs. Try the pasta with pink sauce. |
Soak in ancient therapeutic springs
Ikaria has several radion-rich, mineral hot springs, which are reputed to be an important factor in the islander’s well-being – since ancient times. The places to visit for a curative soak are in the island’s northeast and southeast coasts Aghios Kyrikas, Lefkada, Aghia Kyriaki and Therma. Ancient Therma was destroyed by an earthquake in 205 BC when the city slid off grid into the sea. Find the place on the coast (marked by some concrete boulders) where the hot water spring flows into the sea, or visit the Therma Hot Mineral Spring Bath House for an organized dip. At Therma you will also find a sandy beach and plenty of cafes and tavernas. It’s worth visiting the Agriolykos Pension (in person or online) to see if they are offering any therapies, as every now and then offer reiki, reflexology and massage treatments or workshops. |
Renew Yourself with Yoga or Therapies
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Like a tourist…
Walk around Akamatra village, south of Evdilos, to sit under the 500 year-old oak tree, once used as a gallows. In the picturesque Arethousa village go see the much-photographed Theokepasti chapel, which has been carved inside a giant rock. Visit Avlaki fishing village just before sunset for a romantic walk and glow-time dining on fresh seafood. In Aghios Kyrikos don’t miss out onm the Archaeological Museum and the Folklore museum – both hosting fascinating exhibits that trace back through Ikaria’s rich history. Like a local… Explore Raches for its buzzy central square to while away hours playing backgammon and sipping wine or having a tasty meal at one of its meze places. In Magganitis don’t miss out on the somewhat loopy Kafepandopoleio, a coffee-shop / grocery store that gets full to the brim with locals and visitors alike all bunching up to drink and enjoy live music. Also in Magganitis, Bouboukakia has a similar concept but a more homey style. See ‘the Other Side’ The northwest coast will show you a completely different aspect of Ikaria; barren, rocky and dusty with stunning contrasts of blue skies and sea. Visit the village of Karkinagri for a break and a more isolated swim in a rocky hideout. Pay tribute to Dionysus The Ikarian Wine Club, in Pigi, Evdilos is an agrotourism unit with an organic farm and winery where small groups of guests stay in two stone houses. The unit was set up by George Karimalis and his wife Eleni, whose winery is well worth organizing a visit to not just for its sweeping view across the vineyards and interesting museum, but also for a chance to sample their excellent organic wines. The couple also run a guesthouse. Another beautiful winery with top quality wines is the Afianes Winery near Rahes, which produces the internationally lauded white Begleri wine, while Tsantiris Winery, on the edge of the Chararis Gorge in the village of Ano Proespera (northwestern side of the island) prides itself on producing 100% organic wines made with the local Fokiano, Begleri and Mandilaria grapes. Get stuck on the honey There is something keeping people in Ikaria alive a lot longer than those of us in the west live. Could it be the honey? Read about Honey in Ikaria Say Cheese The local Kathoura cheese, which is very similar to mozzarella in its colour, texture and flavor, accompanies almost every local meal, and is also be used as a filling for vegetables or meats. Goat herder Antonis (affectionately called ‘Antoine’ by locals) makes top quality fresh Kathoura in his tiny home kitchen almost daily or by commission. Order it from his German wife Silke, a member of the Raches Women’s Cooperative. Meet Raches’ Superwomen The cooperative’s seven members, most of whom are unemployed mothers working on a fully volunteer basis, toil throughout the year to gather, cook, preserve and sell their produce. Their products have been received with great success, but with a rise in demand, they cannot yet afford to expand their business by creating a new workshop area – everything they produce is made in the tiny kitchen of their shop, in Rahes square. You can sit to enjoy a herby iced tea and rich gateaux or homemade savoury or sweet pie of the day, or shop a bundle of gifts like dill pesto, 7 herb liquer, pumpkin chutney and morello cherry spoon sweet. Buy Organic Cosmetics Ikaria’s pure products have led to the creation of several businesses based on organic, seasonal, natural products like soaps and shower gels, vitamin-packed snacks, healthy herbal tea blends, ointments and more. In Rahes you’ll find the store Melia Homemade Products where they sell their own products as well as brands from around Greece and the world. Synempe Lab products range from lip balms to body scrubs that are made using olive or coconut oil and wild Ikarian herbs and flowers, and are sold at various places around the island as well as online. Icaria Pure also sells products made according to traditional recipes as well as modern versions of old classics and using local organic and wild-growing ingredients. |
Learn to Speak Greek
Ikarian Center: Greek Language and Art Association: Assists students in improving all their skills (listening, writing, speaking and reading) in the Greek language. The Centre’s aim is to make each course a cultural experience. Through a variety of guided activities (interviews, projects, lectures, pair work, etc.) students are brought in touch with the local community and learn more about Greece and its people on the amazing island of Ikaria. For more articles by Alexia Amvrazi & Adrian Vrettos be sure to visit their website at www.athensguide.com/journalists/ |